15 Burning Questions About Retinol Answered Everyday Health MenuNewslettersSearch Smart Skin 15 Burning Questions About Retinol Answered Retinol can seem like a skin-care savior — or a complicated ingredient with the potential to turn your skin into a red and itchy mess. Here, we help demystify the product. By Moira LawlerMedically Reviewed by Ross Radusky, MDReviewed: November 5, 2019Medically ReviewedRetinol accelerates skin cell turnover, revealing plumper, clearer skin after several months of use.iStockRetinol, or vitamin A1, is prized for being one of the most effective ingredients you can use on your skin. “Retinols are one of the best studied and most widely agreed upon clinically effective ingredients for beautiful, healthy skin,” says Lara Devgan, MD, a New York City–based plastic surgeon and the chief medical editor for RealSelf. It’s no wonder then that retinol products are popular — but there are still many questions surrounding them, including which side effects to expect, how to avoid irritation, and what to look for when purchasing a retinol. Here are answers to 15 of the most common questions surrounding retinol. 1 Why Is Retinol Drying at First Retinol promotes cell turnover, which is part of what makes it so effective but also what may lead to flaky and dry skin, says Sheel Desai Solomon, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with Preston Dermatology + Skin Surgery in Cary, North Carolina. According to a study published in August 2017 in The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, this side effect happens because retinol loosens the connection between the skin cells called keratinocytes, and that loosening can increase flakiness. Dryness is also believed to be the result of retinol decreasing oil production, but research hasn’t supported this theory yet. 2 What Are the Other Side Effects of Retinol Dr. Solomon says you may also experience the following:ItchinessRednessInflammationIrritationSun sensitivityIncreased breakouts, especially for those with acne-prone skin RELATED: 10 Ingredients That Can Help Turn Back the Clock 3 What s the Difference Between Retinol and Retinoids “The big umbrella term is retinoid, then retinol, and [other] retinoids fall under that,” says Nazanin Saedi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with Jefferson Health in Philadelphia. Past research notes that retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A. Retinol is vitamin A1. Retinoids and retinols work in similar ways, though retinoids are generally more potent and work more quickly. “Retinols are readily available over the counter and contain a lower dose of the active retinoic acid ingredient,” Solomon says. “Prescription retinoids have a much higher quantity of the active ingredient.” 4 What s the Best Way to Use Retinol to Avoid Irritation Sandwich the retinol between moisturizer applications. “Moisturize before applying retinol,” says Manish Shah, MD, a board-certified plastic surgeon based in Denver. “This will not interfere with the retinol absorption into the skin.” And add another layer of moisturizer on top. “If you forget to moisturize while using retinol, your risk of sensitivity is higher,” Dr. Shah says. Also, avoid using retinol every day right off the bat — you’ll want to increase use as your skin builds tolerance. But if your skin doesn’t seem to be adapting after two weeks of use, you should discontinue use and consult with your dermatologist, says Joel Schlessinger, MD, an Omaha-based dermatologic surgeon and contributor to RealSelf. RELATED: The Skin-Care Glossary Every Woman Needs 5 Why Can' t I Use Retinol or Retinoids During Pregnancy Retinol is not recommended for women who are pregnant or nursing because it may lead to birth defects, according to past research. A review published in January 2014 in The Obstetrician & Gynaecologist estimated that the risk of infants being born with malformations (usually craniofacial, nervous system, cardiovascular, or thymic abnormalities) after being exposed to retinoids in utero is around 20 to 35 percent (versus 3 percent for babies overall, per the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention). Meanwhile, the risk of miscarriage is between 20 and 40 percent for babies exposed to retinoids, compared with the 10 to 20 percent overall risk of miscarriage for all women (not just those using retinol or retinoids), according to the Mayo Clinic. 6 Are Plant Retinols as Effective as Traditional Retinols There are a few plant “retinols” out there, including beta-carotene and rose-hip oil. But the buzziest and most promising is the photochemical bakuchiol. “Bakuchiol functions similarly to a retinol, increasing cell turnover and thereby stimulating collagen production and diminishing signs of aging, such as fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity, and overall photodamage,” Shah says. A study published in February 2019 in the British Journal of Dermatology compared a bakuchiol cream applied twice a day with a retinol cream applied daily. Both successfully reduced the appearance of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, with no significant differences between the two products. The retinol users did, however, report more scaling and stinging. According to this study, it seems that the plant retinol may be just as effective as traditional retinol and doesn’t come with the negative side effects. Another bonus: Bakuchiol is safe to use while pregnant, Shah says. RELATED: Can You Sleep Your Way to Healthier, Brighter Skin? 7 How Can Retinols Reduce Fine Lines and Wrinkles There are two main mechanisms at work: cell turnover and increased collagen levels. The skin’s ability to shed the layer of dead cells on the surface naturally decreases with age, which can make the skin look dull, according to a study published in August 2017 in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Retinol increases cell turnover, which makes the skin look brighter and minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. According to a study published in May 2019 in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences, retinols also increase the amount of collagen present in the skin and decrease the amount of enzymes, including collagenases that threaten to break down collagen fibers. The study found that fine lines and wrinkles reduced by about 33 percent after 12 weeks of using a product with retinol and alpha hydroxy acid, a type of exfoliant, per the American Academy of Dermatology. 8 How About Acne Breakouts and Scarring “Retinol increases the rate of skin cell turnover and reduces sebum production, both of which have a beneficial effect on acne,” Dr. Devgan says. That increased cell turnover helps prevent dead skin cells from clogging pores and causing breakouts, Dr. Schlessinger says. Research shows that retinoids, including retinol, reduce the appearance of visible acne lesions and inhibit the development of new ones, according to a study published in September 2017 in Dermatology and Therapy. The skin’s reaction to retinol also treats acne scars, which affect about half of people with moderate acne and 77 percent of people with severe cases. RELATED: Why Are You Breaking Out? 9 Can I Use Retinol Every Day Yes, you can, but if you’re just starting out, you probably won’t want to because your skin likely needs time to adapt. Shah recommends using a pea-sized drop of retinol two or three nights a week to start. If your skin seems to be tolerating it well after two weeks, try using it every other night for another week or two, eventually working your way up to daily application. Pay attention to how your skin reacts and adjust the frequency of use accordingly. 10 Why Shouldn t I Use Retinol in the Sun Retinol can become deactivated when exposed to sunlight, Dr. Saedi says. And it can make the skin more susceptible to sunburn, especially during the first six to eight weeks of use, Shah says. But any suggestion that you should halt retinol use during the sunny summer months isn’t true. “I recommend it year-round, and making sure sun protection, which you need anyway, is extra good,” Saedi says. RELATED: 6 Steps for Choosing a Clean and Safe Sunscreen 11 When Should I Use Retinol Saedi suggests applying it at night after washing your face. That way you won’t need to worry about the sun interfering with it. 12 Can Retinol Damage the Skin You may have heard that extended retinol use can cause the skin to thin and the skin barrier to degrade as a result of increased cell turnover, but Shah says that’s a myth. You don’t need to worry about retinol causing permanent damage, Schlessinger says. RELATED: A Comprehensive Sunscreen Glossary 13 How Do I Choose a Good Retinol Here are three tips: Look for a Percentage on the Label “The most common are 1, 0.5, 0.3, and 0.25 percent,” Shah says. “If your product doesn’t specify the percentage of retinol on the label, it usually means the concentration is weaker than 0.25 percent, which may not give you the full benefits.” If you’re just starting out, choose a low concentration because that comes with a lower risk of negative side effects. Saedi recommends applying it every third night to start, and then every other night after a week or two if your skin seems to be tolerating it, and eventually every night. Pay attention to the formulation and frequency of application that works for you, Saedi says. Some concentrations may be too strong for your skin. Because that maximum concentration will be different for everyone, you have to experiment to see what works best. Consider Product Type Gels are suited for acne-prone skin since they contain alcohol and can be drying (thereby reducing breakouts), whereas creams are generally gentler, Shah says. Avoid Similar-Sounding Ingredients You might spot “pro-retinols” or “retinyl propionate” listed on a label. That may sound like retinol, but those aren’t the same thing and won’t deliver the same results, Shah says. “Derivatives of retinol are in general weaker and less effective than retinol,” he says. “If your goal is to smooth fine lines and wrinkles, you are better off choosing something with plain retinol.” 14 Can Everyone Use Retinol Devgan says that no one product is right for everyone, but retinols are generally safe and well tolerated by healthy adults who are not pregnant. Saedi says you’ll just need to figure out the concentration and frequency of application that your skin can tolerate. RELATED: Can Sipping Bone Broth Make You Look Younger? 15 How Long Will It Take to See Results Unfortunately, it’s not realistic to expect to see results overnight. Since retinols are weaker than prescription-only retinoids, it can take a while for the benefits to come through. Saedi recommends committing to at least 12 weeks of use to see results, though Shah says the most significant results might not be visible until after one year of use. NEWSLETTERS Sign up for our Healthy Skin Newsletter SubscribeBy subscribing you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The Latest in Smart Skin What Is Collagen Water and Is It Good for You Health experts share what liquid collagen is made of, and whether drinking it is worth your time and money.By Lacey MuinosSeptember 21, 2022 What Is Bakuchiol Skin-Care Benefits Side Effects How to Use It and MoreBy Jessica MigalaAugust 25, 2022 Retinaldehyde 101 Benefits Side Effects How to Add It to Your Routine and MoreBy Jessica MigalaJune 7, 2022 Tea Tree Oil 101 Health Benefits Uses Potential Side Effects and MoreBy Jessica MigalaFebruary 9, 2022 What Is Arbutin Skin-Care Benefits Side Effects How to Use It and MoreBy Jessica MigalaFebruary 3, 2022 The Best and Worst Ways to Get Rid of BlackheadsHint: Don’t pop them. Instead, stock your vanity with products that contain acne-fighting ingredients.By Leah GrothMay 24, 2021 7 Ways Dermatologists Keep Their Skin Healthy During TravelTravel stressors, sleep disruptions, and straying from your usual skin-care routine can have negative effects on the skin. The pros share their tips for...By Moira LawlerMay 17, 2021 How to Smooth Brighten and Tighten Skin Without Seeing Your DermatologistEven if you can see your dermatologist in-office during the COVID-19 pandemic, you may want to temporarily substitute one of these home solutions, all...By Jessica MigalaJune 8, 2020 8 Bizarre Skin-Care Ingredients and Whether to Try ThemFrom red algae and snail slime to kale and squalene, learn whether these sometimes strange-sounding ingredients are worth your time and money.By Jessica MigalaMay 27, 2020 How to Care for Your Skin as You Approach MenopauseMenopause leads to hormonal changes that can lead to dryness, uneven skin tone and texture, and sensitivity to harmful UV rays. Here’s how to maintain...By Jessica MigalaMay 4, 2020 See AllMORE IN 7 Ways Dermatologists Keep Their Skin Healthy During Travel What Are Natural Skin-Care Products and Are They Actually Better for You Sunscreen Glossary Decoding Every SPF Term You Need to Know